Bargaining at the eyeglasses market

BEIJING — I finally got a morning/afternoon off on Monday after several days burning the proverbial candle at both ends. I had two things on my agenda: Return my crutches to United Family Hospital out in the Chaoyang district, kind of near the beach volleyball venue, then hustle on over to the Mingjingyuan eyeglasses market.

N&O fashion writer Samantha Thompson-Smith, who along with N&O business staffers Vicki Lee Parker and Jonathan Cox, gave me the lowdown on Beijing before I left, insisted I make a run at the eyeglasses market.

It's like other big marketplaces in Beijing - most famously the pearl and silk markets - in that you'll be overwhelmed with options as soon as you walk into the place. I'm sorry I didn't take a picture of the three levels of over 100 shops selling glasses, sunglasses and contact lenses.

I didn't have a lot of time but in 30 minutes of looking I still stopped by 20 shops, with saleswomen following me everywhere and suggesting frames in every case, looking for the right brownish, half frame glasses I've been wanting.

One shop tried to hook me on the Hugo Boss lenses — the better quality things are always in a drawer — but wouldn't immediately negotiate so I walked. Another store, immediately pulled out the Dior frames. I tried to beg off saying, "Dior! No, too expensive," when the saleswoman assured me, "No, not expensive. Copy, copy!" I was going to say, "I thought it was illegal to sell fakes," but who am I to quibble? They know their business.

At that point, I took off my Olympic credential. I have no idea was I was wearing the darn thing in the first place, habit probably, but it must have been some signal for "sucker" to these women.

I finally found a pair I liked in the "San You Glasses Optometry Mate Lens Centrality" on the third floor, first shop on your left right off the escalator. Here's where it gets a little tricky: Samantha insisted I bargain because that's what they do in China but how? I pushed a little, simply saying what's your best price and was immediately given the regular 60 percent discount, the one they give you for walking in the door, on the frames (320 RMB down to 190 RMB or $48 to $28.50).

But knowing I would pay about $200 for a pair back in the U.S., even with insurance, I had to make it worth my while. That's when I pulled out my prescription. It was hilarious when the saleswoman looked at it. I was comforted to know my extreme nearsightedness translates in Mandarin perfectly well and she looked at me and laughed, "Oh no, not see well." She offered 680 RMB ($102) for the frames & lenses.

It seemed like a good deal but I'm thinking Samantha would be so disappointed if I settled. So I put on my best quizzical face, wrinkled my forehead, and asked if she could do better. I explained, "I could get the lenses cheaper in the U.S. I think I'll just take the frames."

That did the trick. She went from 680 RMB to 430 RMB in about 25 seconds. Sold.

Duay! (Yes!) Xie xie! (Thanks!)

Thirty minutes later, I had my specs.