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With Raleigh restaurants, is beauty in the eye of the beholder?

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I had a puzzling phone conversation with a reader today. He and his wife had done some drive-bys to see the exact locations of some well-regarded Raleigh restaurants. What he saw surprised him and during our conversation I was struck by how worlds apart I was from this man in terms of our evaluation of restaurants.

He specifically mentioned Poole's and Bida Manda. Where I see the charm in Poole's modern update of this former diner, he saw a "dump" and wondered why a James Beard finalist didn't pick a better restaurant location. Where I see the sleek Asian design of Bida Manda, he again failed to see any beauty.

As we were talking, he mentioned Bruno, a steakhouse near Wake Forest, as a restaurant aesthetic that he liked. He called it "charming." I've never eaten at Bruno so I don't know what it looks like. But Greg Cox gave it four stars so I know it is a worthy dining destination. (Go HERE to read Greg's review.)

I urged the gentleman to look beyond whether he likes the look of the place and taste the food. But I'm still scratching my head about this phone call.

Is this a generational divide among diners? He seemed older than my 38 years, maybe close to 60. Is it based on a person's prior dining experience? He said he and his wife moved here from Boston. Are big city restaurants really that much different than what's here in Raleigh, Durham and Chapel Hill? Or maybe some folks have very different ideas about what a restaurant experience should be? I'm as happy to eat off a food truck as dine at Lantern in Chapel Hill. Maybe others don't see dining that way. How can two people be so far apart on the beauty of a place?

What do you think?

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Different Tastes

I'd write if off to different tastes. Some folks are just always going to associate "great restaurant" with "fine dining" and "luxury experience". And as long as they have money, white linen restaurants will cater to their preferences.

Bruno looks like a fine restaurant, and very good at delivering their chosen experience. (see http://www.brunoraleigh.com) I'm sure I'd enjoy a meal there, though my first judgement is that they're a bit unadventurous in their classic steakhouse menu.

Other people find delight in being served great food being in a variety of settings. I've had fantastic, memorable meals in all manner of humble restaurants, all over the world. In fact, isn't it more of a triumph that such places exist and that the diner is rewarded for their efforts in seeking them out?

I'd theorize that being Southern may have something to do with it. Having had some of the best food possible at fish camps, BBQ lodges, soul food kitchens and church fund-raisers may have inoculated us from some of these views.

Let us not also forget that quality is difficult to deliver at larger scales. More than twenty or so tables, and it becomes very difficult for a chef/owner to control the food and service.

Personally, I find it a bit sad that this caller denies themselves the many great pleasures available right under their nose. Perhaps we should take pity and direct them to try the delicious burger at Watkin's Grill. Or perhaps we should leave them be and enjoy these treats ourselves.

All About The Food

Personally, I don't care what a place looks like on the outside. I always judge a place by the food. I would eat at a restaurant that was in the middle of a field if they can produce great food. The dining experience has always been top notch for me at Poole's. The wait staff is amazing, and doesn't seem to turn over very much. I feel like I have seen the same people working there for 4 years.

If that person is unwilling to go outside of their comfort zone for a new dining experience, then they shouldn't. Maybe it is a generational thing (I'm 35). My enjoyment of a restaurant doesn't hinge on whether they have valet parking or Italian marble in the bathroom.

Strip Mall Dining

It took me a good long while after moving here to realize that owners put fine dining spots in generic suburban strip malls. Maybe it's a big city v. suburban sprawl thing? Today on Chowhound, one local poster reminded a visitor not to be put off by restaurants' strip mall locations. This may be a unique, if less than charming, aspect of our regional dining experience.
But yes, after you get past the cognitive dissonance, you learn to look at the menu and service, ignore the bland suburbanism, and be grateful that there's free convenient parking.

I hadn't thought of the

I hadn't thought of the strip mall side of this equation. Good point.

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About the blogger

Andrea Weigl has been the food writer at The News & Observer since the summer of 2007. She has won a handful of awards from the Association of Food Journalists and the Society for Features Journalism. Her profile of chef Ashley Christensen titled "A Force of Nature" will be published in the sixth edition of "Cornbread Nation: The Best of Southern Food Writing." She is serving a three-year term on the James Beard Foundation book awards committee. Follow her on Twitter at @andreaweigl.
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