"One appetizer. One entree. One dessert. One price. One week only."

That's the slogan of Triangle Restaurant Week, which is this week (May 12-18). Two dozen area restaurants are participating, offering three courses for $25 (and some are also offering a $15 lunch deal). That's right, twenty-five bucks for three courses. And we're talking about restaurants like Frazier's, Zely & Ritz, Dos Taquitos Centro and Glenwood Grill.

Interested? Find out more at http://www.trirestaurantweek.com/

Inspired by the recent closings of Red Palace and Tasca Brava, today's Chew on This! column in the N & O reflects on restaurants which have contributed something special to the Triangle by virtue of their going against conventional wisdom. I cite these restaurants as examples:

The Roast Grill, Raleigh - The granddaddy of no compromise, serving hot dogs grilled the old-fashioned way in a tiny shop that hasn’t changed since 1940. Still open for lunch only, and last time I checked, you still entered through a screen door. Don’t want a hot dog? You’re in the wrong place, because that’s pretty much all they sell. And whatever you do, don’t ask for ketchup.

Chops Steakhouse, Garner - A steakhouse that dry-ages its own beef on premises is rare, though I suppose it wouldn’t be too shocking to learn that one is opening in some trendy spot such as Glenwood South. But the outskirts of Garner? Where a dry-aged 14-ounce rib-eye will only set you back $26.95? Including sides?

Jibarra, Raleigh - In a region where, just a few years ago, avocado slices on your Tex-Mex combo plate were considered cutting edge, Jibarra’s elegant fine dining take on Mexican cuisine is daring indeed. And most welcome.

Piedmont and Rue Cler, Durham - After several false starts, it looks like the downtown Durham renaissance is finally for real this time. A lot of the credit goes to these two excellent restaurants, whose openings less than a month apart in late 2006 were the among the first signs of life in a long-dormant area.

Skipper’s Fish Fry, Apex - Talk about daring. How about opening a New England style fish fry in the heart of Calabash country? Fortunately, those of us who grew up believing in the sanctity of Southern style cornmeal-breaded flounder can assuage our guilt over enjoying cracker meal-breaded cod with a side of hushpuppies.

What do you think? Do you have any additions to the list?

This week I review The Mint in downtown Raleigh. You can find the review here: http://www.newsobserver.com/1132 . Do you agree with my rating of 3-1/2 stars?

Note: I just read the final copy of my review in the N & O, and noticed that my editor, trying to be helpful, had inserted a "definition" of the term "sous vide," describing it as "a type of cooking with pressure." While that description may be scientifically correct (I'm certainly no scientist), it misses the point. "Sous vide" is French for "under vacuum," and it's just that: cooking under vacuum, usually in an airtight plastic bag. Just wanted to clear that up.

Anyone else seen the June issue of Bon Appétit magazine yet? There's an article by the Triangle's own Sara Foster (owner of Foster's Market in Durham and Chapel Hill) featuring light pasta dishes for summer. Check it out!

These restaurants are offering a special brunch (or, in some cases, other meals) on Mother's Day. I'll update the list as I learn of others. For still more options, check my April 21 blog post, where I list restaurants which routinely offer Sunday brunch.

Azure Grille
407 Meadowmont Village Circle, in Meadowmont Village, Chapel Hill
960-0707
www.azuregrille.com

Big Ed’s
220 Wolfe St., in City Market, Raleigh
836-9909

Bistro 64
103 Edinburgh South Dr., in MacGregor Village, Cary
380-1322
www.bistro64.com

Blu Seafood & Bar
2002 Hillsborough Rd., Durham
286-9777
www.bluseafoodandbar.com

Carvers Creek
2711 Capital Blvd., Raleigh
872-2300
www.carverscreek.com

Chops
10920 Cleveland School Rd., Garner
550-8100
www.chopsteakhouse.com

Ciao! Osteria
121 N. Salem St., Apex
363-8350
www.ciaoosteria.com

Four Square
2701 Chapel Hill Rd., Durham
401-9877
www.foursquarerestaurant.com

The Irregardless Cafe
901 W. Morgan St., Raleigh
833-8898
www.irregardless.com

La Résidence
202 W. Rosemary St., Chapel Hill
967-2506
www.laresidencedining.com

Margaux’s
Brennan Station, 8111 Creedmoor Rd., Raleigh
846-9846
www.margauxsrestaurant.com

Panciuto
110 S. Churton St., Hillsborough
732-6261
www.panciuto.com
(dinner only)

Peking Garden
126 Millbrook Rd., in Colony Shopping Center, Raleigh
848-3023
www.pekinggardenraleigh.com

Saffron
4121 Davis Dr., in McCrimmon Corners, Morrisville
469-5774
www.saffronnc.com

Skylines Cafe
8878-100 Hwy. 70 West, Clayton
550-7619
www.skylinescafe.com

Sunset Grille
231 Grande Heights Dr., Cary
380-1991
www.sunsetgrillecary.com
(Cary location only)

Taverna Agora
6101 Glenwood Ave., Raleigh
881-8333
www.tavernaagora.com

Tavola Rossa
5300 Homewood Banks Dr., Raleigh
532-7100
www.tavolarossa.com

Zest Café
8831 Six Forks Road, Six Forks Station, Raleigh
848-4792
www.zestcafehomeart.com

This week, I review Ichiban, a new Japanese restaurant in Apex. Here's the link to the review: http://www.newsobserver.com/1132

I awarded Ichiban 2 stars. How many would you give it?

Pardon this little bit of shameless self-promotion, but I thought ice cream fans might like to know about a promotion that the N & O and Goodberry's (www.goodberrys.com) have teamed up to offer to print subscribers. The offer - buy one regular size concrete, get one free - is good at all Goodberry's locations (except the express location at the DBAP), and expires August 1. You'll need a coupon, which you can get by going to the N & O ZONE web page at www.newsobserver.com/zone. Click on the Goodberry's logo and print out the coupon.

This week, I review Crawdaddy's Cajun Cafe in Carrboro. Here's the link to the review: http://www.newsobserver.com/1132

I rated Crawdaddy's 2 stars. What's your rating?

You don't have to be Greek to enjoy the Greek Easter celebration scheduled for this Sunday, April 27 at Xios (www.xioscafe.com) in Apex. All you need is a festive mood and a taste for lamb. The celebration begins at 12:30pm with family-friendly activities including clown antics, face painting and an Easter barrel dig. Live Greek folk music follows at 2pm.

Most enticing of all for the foodies among us are the lamb specials (lamb chops, roast leg of lamb, and lamb spit-roasted over an open fire) which will supplement the restaurant's regular Sunday menu. For more details, check the Xios web site or call the restaurant at 363-5288.

In response to a request from a reader, I just finished putting together a list of restaurants which regulary serve brunch on weekends (usually Sunday). I’m guessing others might be interested in such a list, so I’m sharing it here.

The list is selective, but I’ve made an effort to include a broad assortment of options. If I’ve missed any good ones, please let us know about them here. Be advised that restaurant hours are notoriously changeable, so it’s a good idea to call ahead and confirm hours.

Unless otherwise noted, the restaurant is open for Sunday brunch.

Blue Ridge
The North Carolina Museum of Art, 2110 Blue Ridge Rd., Raleigh
664-6838
http://ncartmuseum.org/restaurant.shtml
à la carte

Carolina Crossroads
The Carolina Inn, 211 Pittsboro St., Chapel Hill
933-2001
www.carolinainn.com
buffet

Fairview
The Washington Duke Inn, 3001 Cameron Boulevard, Durham
490-0999
www.washingtondukeinn.com
à la carte

The General Store Café
39 West St., Pittsboro
542-2432
www.thegeneralstorecafe.com
à la carte

Herons
100 Woodland Pond, in The Umstead Hotel and Spa, Cary
447-4200
www.heronsrestaurant.com
prix fixe

Humble Pie
317 S. Harrington St.
829-9222
www.humblepiebakery.com
à la carte

Il Palio
The Siena Hotel, 1505 East Franklin Street, Chapel Hill
918-2545
www.ilpalio.com
à la carte

The Irregardless Cafe
901 W. Morgan St., Raleigh
833-8898
www.irregardless.com
à la carte

Jibarra
7420 Six Forks Rd., in Peachtree Market, Raleigh
844-6330
www.jibarra.net
à la carte

Lucky 32
7307 Tryon Rd., Cary
233-1632
www.lucky32.com
à la carte

Michael Dean’s
6004 Falls of Neuse Rd., Raleigh
790-9992
www.michaeldeans.com
buffet

Nasher Museum Café
2001 Campus Dr., in the Nasher Museum of Art, Durham
684-6032
www.nasher.duke.edu
à la carte

NOFO Café
2014 Fairview Rd., Raleigh
821-1240
www.nofo.com
à la carte (brunch served Saturday and Sunday)

The Old Granary
2000 Fearrington Village Center, Pittsboro
542-2121
www.fearrington.com/village/granary.asp
à la carte (Saturday and Sunday brunch)

Poole’s Downtown Diner
426 S. McDowell St., Raleigh
832-4477
www.poolesdowntowndiner.com
à la carte (brunch served on Saturday only)

Porter’s City Tavern
2412 Hillsborough St
Raleigh, NC
www.porterstavern.com
à la carte

Rue Cler
401 E. Chapel Hill St., Durham
682-8844
www.ruecler-durham.com
à la carte

South
4351 The Circle at North Hills, Raleigh
789-0606
www.southatnorthhills.com
à la carte

Trálí Irish Restaurant & Pub
10370-109 Moncreiffe Rd., in Brierdale Shopping Center, Raleigh
544-4141
www.traliirishpublcom
buffet

Vin Rouge
2010 Hillsborough Rd., Durham
416-0406
www.vinrougerestaurant.com
à la carte

Vivace
4209 Lassiter Mill Rd., in The Alexan, Raleigh
787-7747
www.vivaceraleigh.com
à la carte

Watts Grocery
1116 Broad St., Durham
416-5040
www.wattsgrocery.com
à la carte (Saturday and Sunday brunch)

The Weathervane
201 S. Estes Dr., in University Mall, Chapel Hill
929-9466
www.southernseason.com/cafe.asp
à la carte (brunch served on Saturday and Sunday)

Xios
800 W. Williams St., in Peakway Market Square, Apex
363-5288
www.xioscafe.com
à la carte

Zest Café & Home Art
8831 Six Forks Road, Six Forks Station, Raleigh
848-4792
www.zestcafehomeart.com
à la carte

A tip of the hat to Rob, whose post on my blog about noisy restaurants inspired this topic. Rob's comment that Bistro 607 is an especially quiet restaurant got me thinking that a lot of people might like to know about restaurants where you can carry on a quiet conversation. I'll start the ball rolling by building on Rob's suggestion with a few of my own:

Bistro 607, Raleigh
Bloomsbury Bistro, Raleigh
Bonne Soiree, Chapel Hill
Four Square, Durham
Glenwood Grill, Raleigh
Il Palio, Chapel Hill
Mythos Bistro, Cary
Panciuto, Hillsborough
Provence, Carrboro
Saint Jacques, Raleigh
Tamarind, Apex

Then mark your calendar for April 29, when several area restaurants will participate in Dine Out for Hunger. The fundraiser is sponsored by Catholic Parish Outreach, which operates a large food pantry for the needy. How large? In January, CPO served nearly 6000 hungry people.

Participating restaurants will donate up to 20 percent of your tab to the cause.

See the CPO website (www.cporaleigh.org) for a list of participating restaurants.

This week, I review Poole's Downtown Diner in Raleigh, awarding the restaurant 4 stars. You can read my review here: http://www.newsobserver.com/1132 .

What's your take on Poole's?

If you dine out frequently - and who doesn't? - you've surely noticed a trend toward ever higher noise levels in restaurants. It's no accident. Restaurant owners are acting on research which has shown that higher decibel levels stimulate higher food and beverage sales. While some people find this sort of "vibrant vibe" to be a plus, my e-mail inbox has left no doubt that many of you don't like it.

One such reader even sent me a video clip of a recent NPR interview with Washington Post food critic Tom Sietsema, who went so far as to record the decibel level in restaurants. Here's the link to that interview: http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=89507554&sc=emaf

I'm not going that far, but I do plan to sharpen my focus on the problem. Beginning with my restaurant review that will be published on April 25, I'll make a point of noting in the info box, under the "Atmosphere" heading, whether a restaurant tends to get noisy.

I'm also updating the list I published in 2006 of restaurants which tend to be particularly noisy, and welcoming your additions to the list. Here it is:

Raleigh: 42nd Street Oyster Bar, 518 West, Angus Barn, Caffe Luna, Johnny Carino’s, Lilly’s Pizza, Mellow Mushroom, P.F. Chang’s, Poole's Downtown Diner, Raleigh Times Bar, Riviera, Sullivan’s Steakhouse, Vivace

Cary/Apex: Connolly’s Irish Pub, Maximillians, Peak City Grill, Red Bowl, Ruth’s Chris Steak House, Triangle Grille

Durham: Alivia's, George’s Garage, Mellow Mushroom, Tosca, Tyler’s Restaurant & Taproom

Chapel Hill/Carrboro: 411 West, Brixx, Carolina Brewery, Crook’s Corner, GlassHalFull, Penang, Top of the Hill, Town Hall Grill

This week, I awarded 4 stars to China Palace in Durham (here's a link to the review: http://www.newsobserver.com/1132 ). What's your opinion about China Palace?